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The Rhone Valley Roller Coaster

Excerpt from "ARTICLE ARCHIVE" by Robert Parker

[The Rhone Valley Roller Coaster (The 2003-2004 Vintages)]



The tasting notes are the result of a 16-day sojourn I spent working from south to north in the Rhone Valley. My primary focus was the 2003 vintage, which for the most part were in bottle, and unbottled 2004s (as usual, wines tasted from tank, vat, barrel, etc. receive an estimated score shown in parentheses). While I will not taste the wines for another 9-10 months, 2005 should turn out to be a very fine vintage, potentially more consistent than its three predecessors.


2003 Northern Rhones - Freaks of Nature?

The earliest harvest that old timers could remember, most northern appellations began their harvest during the third week of August and finished by the end of the first week of September. Every northern appellation has produced atypical, but numerous profoundly great, concentrated red wines. Some producers (i.e., Gerard Chave and Marcel Guigal) believe they may have produced the most prodigious wines of their lives, but they quickly confess they have no reference point for such astonishingly concentrated yet accessible wines. Readers should not expect them to be forebodingly backward, tannic, or impossible to taste when young. In fact, they are just the opposite. The top red wines of the vintage, whether emerging from Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph, Hermitage, or Cote Rotie, are thick, unctuous, full-bodied wines with alcohol contents ranging from 13.5-16%. Analytically, the wines possess extremely low acidity, but the finest reveal amazing dry extract and concentration as well as high tannin levels. The latter characteristic is not always apparent given the extravagant richness of fruit, glycerin, and dry extract. I suspect the top reds will be long-lived as they will age on their remarkable extract, but they are already accessible even though they may need 5-10 years to reach something resembling maturity.

The white wines are the Northern Rhone’s weakness in 2003. Most of them are flabby and lack structure, especially the Condrieus. However, some amazing, concentrated blockbusters were produced in Hermitage and St.-Joseph. These wines are already a delight to drink. My instincts suggest most will not age long, and consumption of the vast majority during their first 5-7 years of life seems prudent.

Another vintage flaw emerged from producers who panicked because of the high sugar as well as low acid readings in their vineyards. Disregarding the taste of their grapes, which often exhibited green tannin and underripeness, they committed the cardinal sin of a vigneron - they panicked and harvested unripe grapes. Almost to a wine, these vignerons (primarily in Cote Rotie), confronted with weather conditions that had not existed for centuries, further exacerbated things by zealously acidulating their fermenting wines. This only served to make them more out of balance and narrowly constructed, resulting in mediocre wines.

Lastly, there were absurdly small yields, ranging from 8 to 25 hectoliters per hectare, about one-half normal


2003 Southern Rhones - Chateauneuf du Pape Rules ... but be very careful!

In contrast to the Northern Rhone, the Southern Rhone, which flourishes under its hot, Provencal sunshine, witnessed nothing so extreme or freakish. The harvest began in early September and lasted through early October. No serious producer picked any Grenache until the second or third week of September. Some precocious terroirs did harvest the Syrah very early, as well as some of the white wine varietals such as Roussanne. If the vineyard survived the stress and roasting temperatures of June through August, September brought normal temperatures as well as some much needed rainfall. When tasting through the 2003 Southern Rhones, it is clear that Mourvedre and Syrah were less successful than Grenache. The most favored appellation was Chateauneuf du Pape, but it is an irregular year. A handful of the most prodigious Chateauneufs I have ever tasted were produced, but the majority of the wines are well behind the quality of their 2001, 2000, and 1998 counterparts. Moreover, the 2003s are not as consistent as the 2004s. Outside Chateauneuf du Pape, the qualitative picture dramatically deteriorates. Some of my favorite villages (Vacqueyras and Gigondas) clearly had maturity problems, producing wines with exaggerated tannins and hollow textures. Even in these appellations one can not look at the vintage in black and white terms since some producers were successful. Although dreadfully inconsistent, the fact is that some very good Cotes du Rhones have emerged, but many are dull, high in alcohol, and abrasively tannic with no supporting ripe fruit. Lastly, only a handful of the 2003 Southern Rhone reds will evolve past 10-15 years.

As for the whites, 2003 turned out to be one of Chateauneuf du Pape’s finest white wine vintages. They are generally full-bodied, flavorful offerings with loads of texture and character, yet they require consumption early in life ... over the next 1-2 years.

In the south, yields were much closer to normal (20-30 hectoliters per hectare) than in the North, yet quantities of the finest 2003 Southern Rhones are modest.


2004 Northern Rhones - 1996 Deja Vu?

Do not let anyone tell you 2004 is a top vintage in the Northern Rhone, unless they confine their accolades to the white wines, which have turned out brilliantly. In fact, it is the finest vintage for Condrieu since 2001, and the top white Hermitages are also impressive. The red wines range from very good to mediocre as the crop size was enormous (50-85 hectoliters per hectare in many vineyards) and vignerons who did not do multiple crop-thinnings were confronted with too many grapes. Moreover, there was significantly less sunshine and heat in 2004, which is noticeable in the Northern Rhones’ more herbal, vegetal characteristics, and appears to be most apparent in Cote Rotie and Crozes-Hermitage. The growers have been spinning 2004 as another 1996 (which has turned out to be long-lived and impressive, with wines revealing higher than average acidities), but 2004 lacks the fat, concentration, and depth of 1996. However, the 2004s possess high acidity, about the only thing they actually share in common with 1996.


2004 Southern Rhones - The Return of Consistency

Unlike the North, the Southern Rhone had enough sunshine to achieve full ripeness, resulting in high quality, elegant, consistently good (whether it is Chateauneuf du Pape, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, or Rasteau), fresh, lively wines. Production was modest (blame the second straight year of drought), and the wines possess good focus and character. The only thing they lack is the extra fat and textural dimensions found in the greatest vintages. They will offer early to mid-term drinking, generally lasting for 10-14 years. Most of the top growers favorably compare the style and personality of 2004 with 1999, a legitimate comparison. Mourvedre was one of the most favored varietals, which can be seen in the wines from estates that utilize significant amounts of that grape. Overall, it is a good to very good year, more consistent than 2003, but without the titanic peaks of quality 2003 produced.


A Thumbnail Sketch of Rhone Valley Appellations

Cote Rotie - This region was mediocre in 2004, producing herbal wines made from high yields. Consumers are advised to stick with the top producers, but even they produced good rather than inspirational wines. 2003 has produced some of the finest Cote Roties I have ever tasted (i.e., Guigal and Rostaing). Most are freakishly ripe with low acidity. However, there are many failures, and overall the vintage is less consistent than in many other Northern Rhone appellations.

Condrieu - This small, quiet appellation just south of Cote Rotie produced flabby, excessively alcoholic, fragile 2003s that are already exhibiting signs of an early demise. In contrast, 2004 is a brilliant vintage. The wines reveal fabulous minerality, wonderful ripe fruit, and loads of personality and soul.

Hermitage - The greatest red Hermitages of 2003 are likely to go down in wine anthology as a vintage that will rank alongside 1961 and perhaps such ancient legends as 1929. Freakishly rich, full-bodied, ripe wines tastes New World-ish until you realize they have a liqueur of mineral-like taste to them as well. Flamboyantly big and rich, with loads of tannin as well as low acidity, the finest wines are the most concentrated Northern Rhones I have ever tasted. They will be accessible young, and should evolve for decades. The white 2003 Hermitage are fragile. There are some stunning, super-concentrated examples, but even those wines will require consumption in their first decade of life. The 2004 vintage produced very fine white Hermitage, but generally herbal, moderately-endowed, tart, undernourished reds except at the finest houses such as Chave and Chapoutier.

St.-Joseph - The big, sprawling appellation of St.-Joseph is always one of the most difficult to evaluate. Some unbelievably rich, spectacular 2003 reds that taste like a superlative vintage of Hermitage were produced. Given their prices, this will be an area for consumers to seek out for appealing price/quality ratios. There are some stunning 2003 whites (mostly Marsanne and small quantities of Roussanne), but they are in the minority. The 2004 reds are herbal, tart, and lack concentration. The 2004 whites are impressive as well as consistent.

Crozes-Hermitage - 2003 produced powerful, inky wines that often have more in common with Hermitage than most vintages. The finest offerings represent a treasure-trove of great wine values as well as high quality. Shrewd consumers will be able to secure glorious wines to enjoy over the next 15 years. Most of the 2004s are herbal, acidic, and lack texture as well weight because of colossal yields.

Cornas and St.-Peray - Cornas produced concentrated, black/purple 2003s that are accessible (a rarity for the savage Syrahs from this rustic appellation). They can be stunning wines, but will require consumption during their first 12-15 years of life. The 2004 Cornas are, at best, slightly above average. Perhaps the biggest surprise in my tastings was the re-emergence of the white wines of St.-Péray. The top whites are beginning to take on a Chablis-like character. The vineyards are planted in pure granite, resulting in a striking minerality (few producers utilize any new oak). Both 2003 and 2004 have produced some inexpensive gems from St.-Peray.

Chateauneuf du Pape - The peaks of quality in 2003 (in reality, a dozen or so wines) are far higher than in 2004. 2004 is a more consistent vintage, and less fraught with major disappointments. 2003 has produced some wines with enormous concentration as well as remarkable intensity, along with high alcohol and tannin, that may turn out to be legendary efforts, but it is an irregular vintage. Consider 2004 as a more elegant and restrained, but also more consistent younger sibling in the mold of 1999.

Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Rasteau - There is little comparison between the two vintages in these three areas. 2003 is largely disappointing except for some of the better Rasteau producers. The wines lack texture, possess hard, green tannins, and are not fun to taste or drink. 2004 has turned out surprisingly well, with excellent ripeness and much more consistency, but few truly profound wines. Overall, the wines are very good to excellent.

Cotes du Rhone and Cotes du Rhone-Villages - This is such a vast area it is impossible to generalize. Good wines are found in both vintages, but in general, 2004 is more consistent. The 2003s that were made from fully ripe fruit with total tannin maturity can be special, but there are many disappointing wines.


Prices

Prices for the 2004 Rhones are similar to the 2003s, as both vintages are expensive because so little wine was produced in the South. The great 2003s of the Northern Rhone will be in huge demand by collectors, assuming they can find the microscopic quantities that will have to be allocated throughout the world.

- Robert Parker



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