シャトー・ムートン・ロートシルト 1982
パーカーポイント100点![1982] シャトー・ムートン・ロートシルト 750ml[1982] Chateau Mouton Rothschild 750ml CP91まあ凄いワインを開ける事になってしまいました。一本20万で売っていますが、その値段だと91点です。高過ぎです。私はこのワインをプリムールで1985年前後に24本買いました。その中の一本です。入荷した時にインポーターに呼ばれてソムリエの田崎さんや金谷さんたちと飲んだのをよく覚えています。とにかく届いた時から美味しいワインでした。果実味が強く強烈なボディーがあるのですが、十分飲んで美味しいワインでした。私がその時までに飲んだ一級シャトーではそんなワイン初めてでビックリしたのを覚えています。82年は20世紀最大のヴィンテージの一つとなりました。パーカーさんが世に認められたのもこのヴィンテージの評価が当たっていたからです。その後も80年代に数本飲みましたが、若飲みしても大変美味しく、良いワインでした。しかし、90年代に入ると閉じてしまって一向に開かないワインになってしまいました。そして2000年代に入ってもこの傾向は続いています。このボトルは飲む3時間前にデキャンタしました。やはりうわさ通り30時間前にデキャンタする必要があったのかも知れません。色は全く年を取ったワインの色ではありません。普通は25年も経てば褐変したりレンガ色になったりオレンジ色が若干乗ったりするのですが、未だに若々しいガーネット色です。でも買ったころからすれば色は薄くなっています。澄んだきれいな輝くガーネット色、澱は非常に少ないです。コルクの上には濃いカビが付着していました。香は杉、カシス、インク、の香りですが、本来通常出てくる熟成香が弱いです。25年経ってもまだ若いと言う事でしょう。パーカーさんも何度もレポートを書いていますが、書くたびに飲みごろの時期が変わっています。92年の時は1992~2042年と言っていました。93年には1993~2043年94年には2004~2032年95年には2000~2055年00年には2010~2075年と変わっています。94年位からこのワインが休眠状態に入った事を物語っています。不老不死のワインなのかも知れません。味わいは品の良い果実味、(80年代に飲んだ時の濃厚さはありません)ふくよかで丸くなったが腰のあるタンニン、柔らかい酸、複雑で品の良いカベルネの味わいです。凄いミネラルとエキス分を持っています。更にグラスに注いで時間が経つと徐々に開き始める感じが分かります。甘いベリー系の香りが徐々に増えて行きます。味わいの中にも果実感が増して行きます。25年経ったワインがまだ若いと言う事は異常な事です。本当に2010年になったら飲み頃になるのか私は疑問に思います。死ぬまでにまだ数本飲むことが出来ると思いますが次に飲むのは何時にしようか迷うワインです。1982 Mouton-Rothschild Wine Advocate # 129Jun 2000 Robert Parker 100 Drink 2010 - 2075 $1227-$3094 Opaque purple-colored showing absolutely no signs of lightening, Mouton's 1982 is a backward wine. Still tasting like a 4-5 year old Bordeaux, it will evolve for another half century. At the Philadelphia tasting, it was impossibly impenetrable and closed, although phenomenally dense and muscular. However, on two other recent occasions, I decanted the wine in the morning and consumed it that evening and again the following evening. It is immune to oxidation! Moreover, it has a level of concentration that represents the essence of the Mouton terroir as well as the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon it contains. Cassis, cedar, spice box, minerals, and vanillin are all present, but this opaque black/purple Pauillac has yet to reveal secondary nuances given its youthfulness. It exhibits huge tannin, unreal levels of glycerin and concentration, and spectacular sweetness and opulence. Nevertheless, it demands another decade of cellaring, and should age effortlessly for another seven or eight decades. I have always felt the 1982 Mouton was perfect, yet this immortal effort might be capable of lasting for 100 years! Readers who want to drink it are advised to decant it for at least 12-24 hours prior to consumption. I suggest double decanting, i.e., pouring it into a clean decanter, washing out the bottle, and then repouring it back into the bottle, inserting the cork, leaving the air space to serve as breathing space until the wine is consumed 12-24 hours later. The improvement is striking. The fact that it resists oxidation is a testament to just how youthful it remains, and how long it will last. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2075. Wine Advocate # 102Dec 1995 Robert Parker 100 Drink 2000 - 2055 $1227-$3094 (400) In 1995, I find the Mouton-Rothschild to be the most backward and unevolved wine of the 1982 vintage. It flaunted a knock-out, fabulously rich and ostentatious personality during its first 5-6 years after bottling. Since the late eighties it has gradually closed down, and it is hard to estimate when this wine might re-emerge. The thick, unctuously-textured, jammy fruit and enormous flavor concentration that are the hallmarks of the vintage are present, but the wine is extremely unevolved, and behaves like a young barrel sample. This massive, powerful example of Mouton exhibits huge tannin and immense body. Significantly richer than the 1970 or 1961, it is not far fetched to suggest that it is comparable to either the 1959 or 1945! Owners who do not want to commit infanticide should cellar it for another 5-10 years. Like Latour, the 1982 Mouton-Rothschild is a potential 50-60 year wine. Tasted 21 times since bottling with consistent notes. Wine Advocate # 95Oct 1994 Robert Parker 100 Drink 2004 - 2032 $1227-$3094 (135) Tasted 14 Times Since Bottling With Consistent Notes Mouton-Rothschild's 1982, which has always been the star among the Medoc first-growths in early tastings of the vintage, is totally closed and nearly impenetrable. Still an opaque dark purple color with no lightening at the edges, the 1982 Mouton exhibits a tight but promising bouquet of super-ripe blackcurrants, minerals, roasted nuts, licorice, and spices. It needs considerable coaxing to reveal its nuances. This wine may now be one of the most backward 1982s. Enormous in the mouth, with mouth-drying tannins, and layer upon layer of sweet, super-concentrated fruit, it represents the essence of the Mouton style. This enormous wine is at least 10-15 years away from hitting its plateau of maturity. The finish is all youthful power and tannin. It remains one of the most remarkable young wines I have ever tasted, but I am beginning to think I will be an old man before it is fully ready to drink. It should last for at least 50 years. Could this be another 1945? Wine Advocate # 88Aug 1993 Robert Parker 100 Drink 1993 - 2043 $1227-$3094 Still an opaque dark purple color with no lightening at the edges, the 1982 Mouton exhibits a tight but promising bouquet of super-ripe blackcurrants, minerals, roasted nuts, licorice, and spices. It needs considerable coaxing to reveal its nuances. This wine is one of the most backward 1982s. Enormous in the mouth, with mouth-drying tannins, and layer upon layer of sweet, super-concentrated fruit, it represents the essence of the Mouton style, favoring nearly 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This enormous wine is at least 10-15 years away from hitting its plateau of maturity. The finish is all youthful power and tannin. It remains one of the most remarkable young wines I have ever tasted, but I am beginning to think I will be an old man before it is fully ready to drink. It should last for at least 50 years. Last tasted, 8/93. Because of their fleshy personalities, Cheval Blanc and Pichon-Lalande won virtually all of the early blind tastings (between 1985 and 1987) of the 1982s. Mouton-Rothschild, which has always been the star among the Medoc first-growths, is totally closed and nearly impenetrable. Wine Advocate # 84Dec 1992 Robert Parker 100 Drink 1992 - 2042 $1227-$3094 Last Tasted 8/92 If the 1985 continues to evolve easily and in a flattering manner, the 1982 continues to close down, preparing itself for an extraordinarily long life. The 1982 Mouton was one of the greatest, most impressively structured and richest young red wines I ever tasted from cask and during the first 4-5 years after bottling. Since then, the wine has continued to exhibit massive weight and richness, but the explosive bouquet has become more restrained and the tannin levels more noticeable. Tasted twice during the past summer, the wine was identical at both tastings. The color remains an opaque dark ruby/purple with no evidence of amber or orange at the edge. The nose offers subtle lead pencil, jammy black cassis, and toasty vanillin aromas, but even after several hours of breathing they no longer soar from the glass as the did five or six years ago. In the mouth, this enormously concentrated, massive wine is easily the richest Mouton-Rothschild produced since 1945. In that sense, it is an even denser wine the extraordinary 1986. The tannins are noticeable and the acid level is sound. The finish is spectacular, but the wine is extremely tight and structured, and would appear to need at least another decade of cellaring before it reaches its plateau of maturity. I suspect this Mouton will last 50+ years. A legend!